Who Won the Day at Paris Fashion Week? Miu Miu’s Humor Is on Display With Logo Leg-Warmers and a Mini Gym-Shaped Shoulder Bag

Officially kicking off Paris Fashion Week into high-gear, Dior’s collection centered around athleticism, a trend that started in New York. Maria Grazia Chiuri “took a closer look at the Amazons, the female warriors and hunters who inspired a 1951 design by founder Christian Dior,” wrote WWD’s Joelle Diderich in her review. The perfect example, a nude one-shoulder bodysuit over a sequin fringe wrap skirt and flat, knee-high gladiator boots. The look felt easy, glamorous and powerful for an Olympic goddess.

Sensuality and revealing the human form continues to be a big message of spring 2025, and no one does it as ingenious as Nicolas Di Felice, artistic director for Courrèges. Last season, he showed magic squares with open backs, and this time he took it one step further. “For next season, he’s reducing them to the size of censor bars, guaranteeing all his outfits pass the Instagram nipple filter,” wrote WWD’s Joelle Diderich in her review. “It’s the magic bandeau,” joked Di Felice backstage. A head-turning example is this floating micro top paired with elongated leather cut-out pants.

In two seasons at Chloe, Chemena Kamali has revived the French house’s boho-chic aesthetic, showing she’s at the forefront of the new wave of femininity that’s permeating fashion, even on the high-street. This collection will surely have a similar effect. It was hard to choose just one standout look among the many highlights, but this opening lace bishop-sleeve top and drawstring bloomers encapsulated the ethereal mood of the season. And let’s not forget the matching white handbag with lucky charms.

Today, Loewe’s Jonathan Anderson delivered one of the strongest collections this season, a show full of new concepts such feathered t-shirts, cropped leather jackets-come-caplets, an array of the lightest floral hoop dresses and so much more. Anderson’s ability to re-contextualize cultural heritage while developing new craftsmanship techniques is what makes him so influential. A great example, this floral georgette hoop dress hovering over high-top flat sneakers, the ultimate uptown-meets-downtown girl look.

There are conceptual designers and then there is Rai Kawakubo. Always ahead of her time, yet old school in her fashion show approach. Intimate venues, celebrity-free front rows and if attendees wear head-to-toe CDG, it’s out of respect, not an attempt to influence. The messaging is always her view of fashion itself. This collection named “Uncertain Future” led to one of the most conceptual lineups in recent times. When the world is uncertain, why not shield “in stiffened swirls of fabric resembling a dome of soft-serve ice cream,” as described by WWD’s Miles Socha of this standout look. Here, Kawakubo showed you can have your cake and eat it too.

The return of Alessandro Michele at Valentino was by far the hottest ticket at Paris Fashion Week. Even at a new house, the designer did what he does best: collage together a magpie look by pulling references from myriad eras. It reflected Gen-z’s obsession with vintage shopping and will likely spark their interest in the house’s archives. Case-in-point: this delicate gown with tiers of ruffled polka-dots paired with a dramatic black hat, with Michele’s love for drama and nostalgic Valentino.

For Stella McCartney, “it’s about f–king time that we stopped killing animals for fashion,” the designer told WWD’s Miles Socha. McCartney is always at the forefront of sustainability, and this season she pushed herself, realizing the spring collection in 91 percent sustainable materials. The effortlessly chic collection, full of draping, transparencies and power-tailoring, proved that clothes, which are environmentally conscious don’t need to compromise on being trend-forward. A clear example, this cloud-like crop top made out of recycled bottles paired with baggy blue jeans.

Miuccia Prada, first and foremost, is a rule breaker. Following up on her Prada show in Milan, she mashed-up a variety of aesthetics and eras at Miu Miu. Always ahead of what the cool girls wearing, for spring she pushed the bathing suit as part of the everyday city wardrobe, layering a fire-engine red one-piece with cutouts underneath a pleated two-tone leather skirt. To up the glam factor, there was a playful mix of embellished statement belts, a major force in the accessories category. Miuccia certainly has a sense of humor too, evidenced by the logo leg-warmers and mini gym-shaped shoulder bag for midday workouts.